India had never been very high on my list of countries to visit. I'm not sure why, maybe I was too worried about the perceived chaos of visiting a place with so many people whose culture is so different from my own. Maybe I was overwhelmed with what to see in such a big country. In any case, when my friend Jody invited me to travel around with her for a week in India I didn't hesitate to say yes! She was going to be there for a 3 week yoga training course and wanted to travel a bit after her training but didn't want to travel alone...so I came along to explore this country with her. My first plan is to always see a country on my own, without guided tours. But everything I kept reading online said you should definitely go with a tour group in order to be safe and see all the interesting things. I'm so glad I took that advice. We ended up with a tour guide (Vishnu) and a fantastic private driver (Mr. Gee). I'm sure we would have missed so many amazing sites if we were trying to navigate this visit on our own. Vishnu not only brought us to the main touristy things but also showed us how local people live, worship, eat and play. I was so relieved not to have to drive in the major traffic madness that is Delhi, India! Mr. Gee was such a competent driver that after only about 5 minutes in the car I was completely relaxed and didn't worry about the drive for the rest of our trip. Vishnu was great to have along to explain the sites we were seeing but also to steer us in the right direction when buying local things to bring home or tasting street food (he always made sure we only ate in places he felt were safe for our American tummies) He had a great sense of humor and Jody and I kept him laughing all week! He told us there were, "no stupid questions" and we spent the week learning from each other and really just enjoying being together! I'm so glad Jody invited me to join her in India. I really am amazed by the people, culture, animals, food, sites, sounds (smells) and everything I got to see and do! Now I want to go back with Hyrum and maybe even bring the boys along. It was such a fantastic experience!
Day 1: Delhi
Arrived at 10:30 PM at the airport in Delhi. So very tired after such a long flight with layovers in Atlanta, Georgia as well as Paris, France. So glad that Vishnu and Mr. Gee met Jody and I and took us directly to our hotel and more importantly...my bed!
We spent the day walking around Old Delhi. This is the part of Delhi where the narrow alleyways are full of shops selling items and food. So interesting to see so many different things.
Tried my first real mango lassi
Rickshaw ride through Old Delhi
We visited Gurdwara Bangla Sahib which is a prominent Sikh temple in Delhi.
The temple runs a free cafeteria 24 hours a day for anyone that needs food. It doesn't matter your social standing or means to pay, all are welcome. We got to help by passing out bread to the people that were there to eat.
Vishnu took us behind the scenes to the enormous kitchen that prepares food for thousands of people each day. Jody got to try her hand at making the bread.
We bought some lentils and beans to donate to the kitchen to help feed everyone. This was such a great experience and made we wish we had something like this in America, where all were welcome 24 hours a day and no one is turned away or left to go hungry.
Typical apartment block in Delhi
We walked around the beautiful Lodi gardens. I would love to have spent more time here. It was so nice to step outside the chaos of the city and enter this beautiful green space and listen to the birds.
Lodi gardens has some beautiful ruins you can explore.
Cows just wander around town, on the sidewalks, in the roads...it was so crazy!
We visited Humayun's Tomb. Built around 1550 this tomb was the model used by the architects of the Taj Mahal!
It was so beautiful to walk around this tomb. I had no idea the "Star of David" was used as a symbol in more than just the Jewish tradition.
One of many more tombs built on this site. I loved that the original colors were still present on this tomb.
Day 2: Delhi
We visited the Akshardham Hindu Temple. There were no phones allowed so the next few pictures I got off of a Google search. This place was so beautiful. It was built fairly recently (opening in 2005) but it used traditional styles of architecture and sculpture to replicate a much older temple.
The main shrine inside the temple, everything in here was gold plated. The entire room just glowed!
The sculpture and carved columns were simply amazing.
The outside of the temple was just as beautifully carved as the inside. What a beautiful place to come and worship.
After our wonderful visit to a Hindu temple Vishnu took us to the Jama Masjid Mosque. We had to cover up to enter, per Muslim tradition. We couldn't walk around inside the mosque because we visited just as the call to prayer was announced and we didn't want to disturb those that were praying. How lucky to be able to visit two amazing religious sites in one day!
Jody trying an India cola...Thumbs Up!
We visited a step down well (Agrasen Ki Baoli). The rulers in many big cities wanted a water source they knew wasn't contaminated or poisoned by enemies in some way. So they built these elaborate wells and guarded them to make sure they stayed safe.
We visited "India Gate" which is a war memorial to Indian soldiers who died during WWI.
This is the very place Mahatma Ghandi was killed while walking to the garden for his evening chat with those that came to see him. There was a beautiful museum here that talked about his life and teachings. What an amazing man who stood for equality of all religions and cultures and dreamed of a world where people lived in peace.
A memorial quilt found in the museum. Most people would say "God is Truth" but Ghandi turned that around and said "Truth is God" meaning real truth and knowledge should be first in ones minds and that knowledge can come from many different sources...as exemplified in the many different religious symbols in the bottom left corner.
We visited the beautiful Lotus Temple which is a Bahai religion place of worship but is open to all people regardless of religion or culture.
Such a unique and beautiful structure.
We visited the site of Delhi's oldest fortified city, Qutub Minar. Built between 1199 and 1220 this site was built, destroyed and rebuilt over many hundreds of years. The tower remains standing even after 2 major earthquakes caused damage to surrounding areas.
So many picturesque sites here!
I caught the sun through the archway just as it was setting. So beautiful!
Day 3: Vrindavan
We visited the wonderfully beautiful Krishna temple in Vrindavan. I loved this city because there weren't any other tourists here. I really felt like I was part of the amazing festivities happening.
Worship in the Krishna temple includes singing, dancing and shouting. I loved the energy in this place!
Had to try a yummy mango treat
Sacred cow just hanging out
Beautiful people enjoying a sunny day
We got to go for a wonderful boat ride on the Yamuna River
Our boat captain kept us on course, doing all the work of steering using a pole and his muscles!
Boys playing and bathing in the river
Lots of monkeys, but Vishnu warned us to keep our hats, glasses and bags close because these monkeys will steal things from people and demand a food ransom to get your items back!
Just a camel walking down the street...
We drove into the city of Agra pretty late so we just checked into our hotel. We were pleasantly surprised to see the Taj Mahal from the rooftop of our hotel!
There was also a wonderful, refreshing pool on the rooftop of our hotel. So nice to take a dip after a long hot day!
Day 4: Agra
We started our day with the best masala tea I have ever tasted!
You can tell that pot has been around for years cooking masala tea and I was a bit nervous about trying the tea but I'm so glad I did...it was amazing!
The entry gate for the Taj Mahal
Amazing! The Taj Mahal was commissioned by Shah Jahan in 1631, to be built in the memory of his wife Mumtaz Mahal, who died on 17 June that year, while giving birth to their 14th child.
You can see the massive scale of this building by comparing the size of the people to this archway. I also love the inlaid rock flower decorations on the while marble.
I'm so glad I got to see this site in person. It was so beautiful and immense you just can't describe its presence and the peaceful beauty of it all.
I got to meet so many wonderful animals on this trip:)
We visited the Red Fort in Agra. This was the main residence of the rulers of the Mughal dynasty until 1638 when the capitol of the empire was moved from Agra to Delhi.
The ledge on the right is where the emperor stood in order to mount his elephant that he would ride outside the fort.
You could still see a few of the original colored tiles on the fort. It must have been so beautiful before it fell into ruin.
The courtyard of the queens. Amazing sculpture work on the walls and ceilings.
Wonderful garden inside the fort. This was where guests would stay while visiting the emperor.
Stunning flowers and carvings...I wouldn't mind waking up to this view every day
These chipmunks were so cute! I paid a guy a few dollars so I could hold and feed one:)
We had a few hours to kill in the afternoon and we decided to get an abhyanga massage. I didn't take any photos but they use these cheesecloths full of spices, dip them in hot oil, then pound your body with them. It was quite the experience.
Vishnu took us to the Taj Mahal in the evening to see the sunset. It was very smoky in the air and you couldn't really see the sun...also look how oily Jody's hair is...that was leftover from the crazy, oily massage we had:)
The doorman at our hotel had the BEST mustache!
Day 5: Drive to Ranthambore
We spent a long day in the car getting from Agra to Ranthambore
3 adults on one motorcycle. The most I saw on a motorcycle was a family of 5...two adults and 3 children!
Lots of interesting vehicles and people out on the roads
The scaffolding on new construction is just bamboo poles tied with rope
We stopped for a quick look at Chand Baori, one of the largest step wells in India. Dated to the 8th century there are 3500 steps that cascade down 13 stories to the well. This place was absolutely incredible and I was super sad the steps are all blocked so you can't explore down into the well. A place like this sure makes you appreciate running water...imagine having to climb down and back up these steps every time you needed water!
We checked into our hotel in Ranthambore...looking forward to a tiger safari in the morning!
Day 6: Tiger Safari in Ranthambore National Park
5:30 AM...on the tour headed for the tiger safari
Early morning peacock sighting
Giant banyan tree at the entrance gate to the National Park
We saw a mama sloth bear and her two cubs...our guide said this was a very rare sighting. Sloth bears are even harder to spot than tigers within the National Park.
We were absolutely thrilled to see a mama tiger and her three 10 month old cubs. We got to observe these 4 tigers for about 45 minutes as they walked down to a little stream and lazed around in the shade.
Crocodile and painted stork
On our way out of the park. We were so thrilled with the animals we got to see. You are not guaranteed a tiger sighting just because you book a safari. There are 10 zones that tourists are allowed into each day and you can get lucky if a tiger happens to be in your zone but they don't promise you will see one. Jody and I felt so happy we got to see not just one but 4 amazing tigers!
On our way out of the National Park we noticed this amazing fort at the top of the cliffs. We texted Vishnu to ask him if we were allowed to go visit because it wasn't on our itinerary to do anything besides the safaris that day. He said we could check it out so we did. I'm so GLAD we did, what a great cultural experience we had up at the top!
Heading up the 500+ steps to get to the top
More steps...but with a cool tunnel:)
Jody caused a traffic jam on the steps because so many people were stopping her to get a photo with her. We were the only westerners at this site and it was crazy how many people wanted photos with us. It was so fun to feel their excitement and friendliness.
Made it to the top of Ranthambore Fort
LOTS of monkeys hanging out at this fort but they were all very polite and well fed...no mean monkeys in site!
A beautiful local wanting a photo with us
We followed the crowd and turned out it was a holy day for the Hindu God Ganesh. This temple at the Ranthambore Fort is dedicated to Ganesh so there were throngs of people waiting to bring offerings inside the temple. We were able to go inside and see the altar, what an amazing experience to be surrounded by throngs of worshipers there for a day of celebration.
Monkey mama with her baby enjoying an offering by one of the pilgrims
This monkey looked like he was in charge!
Heading back down the many, many stairs.
We made it back to our hotel just in time to be picked up for our 2nd tiger safari of the day. I liked the rules printed on the back of the drivers seat. "No No Noise"
After being in the park for only about 10 minutes the driver heard a bunch of monkeys making noise and shouting up in the trees. That usually means some sort of predator is around and they were making a warning call to the other animals. It turns out it was a LEOPARD! Again, our guide says it is very rare to see leopards as they usually don't come into the section of the park the tourists are allowed to go. So amazing!
Jody and I hanging out on the safari jeep
We drove up to a tiger that had made a recent kill. We observed the tiger for about 30 minutes as it walked cautiously around and drug its prey up into its den to eat. So amazing, I felt like I was in an actual nature documentary!
The last tiger we saw of the day was this gorgeous one having a little relaxing cool down in the river. The tiger was about 50 feet from our jeep and we just sat and observed until it got bored and walked away! We were beyond happy with how many tigers we got to see in the wild. What a great day!
I took a shot of the many tourist jeeps and the people all hoping for a quick peek at the tiger:)
Bye bye tiger...have a nice day...thanks for letting us hang out for a few minutes:)
On the drive back to our hotel we saw wild pigs...I mean can this day get any cooler with the number of animals we got to see??
Day 7: Jaipur
We got to feed some cows!
India, and Jaipur in particular, is emerging as one of the best jewelers in the world. We got to tour around a fine jewelry factory and see how beautiful (very expensive) things are made.
We visited the City Palace in Jaipur which is now a museum. We couldn't take photos inside the museum but it was mostly weapons and textiles. There was also a beautiful throne room
If you give the guards at the palace a few dollars you can get your photo with them:)
Stopped for a quick henna tattoo
Jaipur is known as the "Pink City." Most of the buildings are this beautiful color.
Walking around the markets of Jaipur
This family stopped their tuk tuk driver just to hop out and take a photo with us:)
We visited Galta Ji or Temple of the Monkeys. It was so neat to just be another animal walking the streets of this place. No better or worse than the cows or monkeys...I'm just another living creature sharing space with those around me:)
This place was beautifully situated surrounded by mountains
Walking up to the sacred pools
These monkeys were so cute. I was scared at first to let them jump on me but their little paws were so soft and they were so inquisitive!
I wonder what my cat would think if I brought a monkey friend home?
We had planned to attend a festival in Jaipur in the evening but a thunderstorm with lightning canceled the festivities...luckily our hotel hosts a little cultural event each evening so we got to enjoy that.
We relaxed with drinks at the hotel bar...
...and played a round of pool. It was nice to have a relaxing evening.
Day 8: Jaipur then goodbye India!
We visited the amazing Amber Palace just outside Jaipur. There were buildings at this site as early as the 11th century but the fort was originally built in the 16th century but added onto by subsequent rulers for the next 150 years. There are 4 main levels, each with their own courtyard. This palace was massive and you could spend days exploring here.
Another amazing step down well at the Amber Palace. I never get tired of seeing these beautiful structures.
Main market square at the Amber Palace
You can see how protected this palace was from invaders...surrounded by mountains
This bath was large enough for the king and three of his favorite females to join him:)
I was impressed by how you could just wander around the complex and explore different stairways and passages. I feel like my kids would love exploring this place!
Our reflection in an ancient mirror
Every time we turned a corner or visited another level there was something beautiful and amazing to see.
This ceiling was amazing! The mirrors were positioned to reflect light back to the hallway below.
There were engaged couples all around the palace taking photos for their wedding. Such a wonderful location for a photo shoot!
I wonder where these giant stairs lead?
To an amazing tower lookout!
Overlooking a beautiful garden
All of the doors and windows were decorated with ivory and metal but most has been stripped away and stolen
Working on my yoga...unfortunately you need 4 arms to do this pose correctly!
Outside the Amber Palace you could pay this guy to show off his cobra. I was terrified but super proud of Jody...she even touched its head!
The Jaivana Cannon is the largest cannon in India. It was never used in battle and was only fired once. It used 225 pounds of gunpowder and the cannonball shot 22 miles!!
Another mountainy view from the fort where the Jaivana Cannon is located
The Jal Mahal, or Summer Palace for the king. Unfortunately you aren't allowed to visit the island palace..still cool to see though:)
Our final stop in Jaipur was to Jantar Mantar. Built in 1734 this complex with its many instruments allow you to observe astrological positions of the sun with your naked eye. Many people in India believe is Astrology and so it was very important to be able to tell where the sun and moon were when a person was born so as to predict what kind of life they would lead.
This is the worlds largest sundial
The shadow on the white marble tells you what time it is and is correct to the second!
After leaving Jaipur we drove for 6 hours to get back to Delhi to make our flights home. It was so sad to say goodbye to our wonderful guide Vishnu and our fabulous driver Mr. Gee. I saw so many amazing things in just one week in India. I hope to come back and spend more time and see even more wonderful sites! 💗💗💗
